Sitting outside the Cosmi overlooking the Paseo in the centre of Santa Eulalia is one of the finest lazy experiences that Ibiza has to offer.
Watching the bustle of life in the town centre pass you by in the sunshine it is almost impossible not to make friends with those at the adjacent tables, or renew acquaintance with those rushing past going about their business before the shops all shut for the afternoon siesta.
Inside, where the tables provide more room for your breakfast (served all day!), 'menu del dia', or almost anything else you can think of from the ample kitchen, the walls are crammed with pictures accumulated over the many years of its history and typify the 'always busy' feel of the place, as people rush through on their way in between or on their way to work.
Being in the centre of the town it has been a meeting point for people from all over the island for decades as it is so easy to find - "On the main town square opposite the Royalty" is sufficient even for people who have never been to the town before. This is somewhat unfair because it is the only survivor of the three oldest cafe's that pre-date the Spanish Civil War in a town that now boasts over a hundred.
It was at about the time of the Civil War that the Cosmi was forced to define its character - and also the time when the Royalty was built. The arrival of the Civil War divided the town between those that had acquired wealth (the Royalists) and those that had earned it for them (the Republicans), and the two ends of the spectrum were represented in Santa Eulalia by the Cosmi and the Royalty. In Franco's days the proletariat frequented the Cosmi whilst those upon whom Franco smiled frequented the Royalty.
Back in those days the Cosmi would be open every day until 2 or 3 in the morning, and then open again an hour later for those fishermen arriving back late from rough seas. (Nowadays the early hours fishermen look more like clubbers, but who's complaining at that time of day?). Not much else has changed since those days - nowadays they are open from ? for ? days of the year/week.
? ? the current owners are grandsons?? of the Cosmi who ran the original Cosmi's Hotel over the road that is now the Hostal Central. Their current location was originally Antonia's Fisherman's Bar, so named because it stood opposite the Fisherman's Tree at the top of the Paseo where the town's fishermen displayed their catch in its ample shade - in much the same way that the drivers at the taxi rank use the shade from the trees on the Paseo nowadays whilst waiting for their clients.
Although several generations have passed since the Civil War the difference between the Cosmi and the Royalty is firmly defined. Those with capitalist tendencies or aspirations meet over the road. The younger set of 'real' people congregate at the Cosmi where people are a bit more 'touchy-feely' friendly and less likely to be accused of posing. If you're meeting your bank manager you choose the Royalty - if you're meeting your mates it's the Cosmi...
? & ? run their cafe in the true traditional manner of a Spanish bar. They discourage people from ordering at the bar in order to display their exemplary skills at table service. Ok, when it's busy you may have to wait a few minutes, but Hey? - 'tranquilo' you're in Spain where relaxation and pleasure take precedence over all other priorities in life. Relax and enjoy this unique experience, picture the fishermen displaying their wares over the way to the sound of a conch being blown to summon the townspeople.
Alternatively if fast food in a characterless environment is your bag - go over the road to the recently opened KFC & Pizza Hut combination.
If you want a taste of Spain in a proud and historic Spanish town you need look no further...
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