Ibiza San Jordi Market

In the winter the Hippodrome of this tiny suburb on the way to the airport assumes an important role in the lives of island residents. During the summer most visitors to the island miss this village as they fly through it on their way to the bustle of the harbour 'Mile', or wipe a tear from their eye on the way from Space to that early morning Monday check-in at the airport - and reality...
However, in the winter, believe it or not, San Jordi becomes the happening place where those who can't afford to go to Asia and refuse to return to northern Europe congregate in a colourful crowd each Saturday. I'm not a 'shopper' sort of person, but it's hard not to get into the mood surrounded by all these people trying on outlandish clothing chosen from impressions drawn through a three foot distant car wing mirror.

This is the essence of Ibiza - late December and the sun is shining on a Saturday morning. The hard core performers have been up since six loading their stock into a beat-up VW van or an ancient Renault 5 with a trailer in tow. Their pitch is set up shortly after sunrise and the cool alternative to the Es Cana Hippy market is underway.

The difference here is that the passing traffic aren't tourists, but the island's locals on a mission to secure all sorts of things that they had no intention of buying, whilst bumping into all of the friends that they haven't seen since last Saturday. The crowd are all smiling as this is a social event rather than a commercial enterprise. Hours of fun are had, a miriad of acquaintances refreshed and plans made for dinner parties throughout those winter nights when two's not enough company and three's just the start of a crowd...
It's Saturday evening now and the Hippodrome bathes alone in the light of the full moon. Left with the memories of the stalls closing down, being crammed impossibly into the back of tiny cars all fighting good naturedly for access to the single lane exit to this erstwhile horse trotting stadium, all that remains are memories of smiling faces and laughter in the fading sunlight as we try on the day's purchases at home by candlelight.

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